Collezioni Close Up: Women Skirt & Trouser - 2 Issues - 1 Year

Although A/W 2020/2011 promises to bring us even more freezing weather, women refuse to cover up their legs, preferring to show them off in mini skirts or latex, and other, body hugging, trousers. From New York to Paris, London and Milan, mini, or even micro, skirts, have fun with innovative plays of pleats and decorative motifs, with more than a slight resemblance to dancing costumes. Square, modern, rigorously cut or with wraparound fronts, in leather or mannish woollen cloth, skirts continue to bewitch by day and, in discos, by night. Romantic long skirts in floral voile matched with heavy masculine jackets, or more elegant, sophisticated chiffon models, nearly always in black, with innovative sharp side plating, gathers and irregular plisse according to a pseudo asymmetric concept. Marabou, dainty flounces, fringes, sequins, glass beads, lace and metallic mesh create harmonious movement and light on skirts apparently plucked from the Follies Berger. Much attention is paid to material effects with, for example, frothy evening skirts, plays of three dimensional embossing and cocoons of gathered ruches. Half shirt, half trousers, Bermudas return to the catwalk with a new decidedly feminine and sexy allure. Skirts share the scene with trousers and here trends call for skinny models in stretch fabric or black leather, in true Mick Jagger fashion. Nicolas Guesquier for Balenciaga and Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy experiment with a new type of fastening folding basques and attaching them to hips, with a zip, to create a sort of flower. Yet, generally speaking trousers are getting looser thanks to a use of softer fluttery fabrics designed to enhance a female step, with stitched darts and gathers focused on the waist to create a bustier effect. Jean Paul Gaultier realises a bust height jumpsuit, whilst the new Martin Margiela team proposes long trousers with a padded waist, practically fitting together two new volumes. An urban horsewoman decked out in tweed and suede jodhpurs, is replaced by a thoroughly glamorous lady in straight shiny metal, brocade and shantung, pants. images: more than 800

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