Collezioni Close Up: Women Print & Embroidery - 2 Issues - 1 Year

Flowers add a burst of colour to the women?s wardrobe of autumn/winter 2010/11, bringing a touch of romanticism and light, carefree air to a season otherwise dominated by dark shades. Fabrics are characterised by, printed or embroidered, motifs of balcony flowers, peonies, English roses, dahlias, large and discreet floral arrangements. Almost as if individual stylists have leaved through antique botanical books in search of inspiration for original versions of a floral theme, in pursuit of new designs and colours, without ever becoming didactic. Placed, embroidered, maxi or minute, decorative flowers are sprinkled on sleeves, shoulders, necks, hems and entire garments, as for example the Kenzo collection. Leading to an infinity of, transverse, interpretations, beginning with studies of decontextualization and renewal based on research into Nineteenth century design archives, led by Christopher Kane, who proposes explosions of gothic, Victorian and wild flowers on black leather, enhanced by stone and crystal inserts, for an armour-like shine. Whilst others play with layers and optical illusions, distorting images and camouflaging military with floral prints, following in the footsteps of Dries Van Noten and an extraordinary talent for combining prints and fabrics. Jean Paul Gautier uses flowers to investigate different global cultures: wandering from Imperial China to Hippy America, East Europe and Maghreb. An authentic floral melting pot. But printed fabric also looks to the mining world for ideas, influenced by coloured veining, erosion and sedimentation, like the stunning chiffons by Mathew Williamson. Mary Katrantzou and Alexander Mcqueen draw inspiration from historic canvas, borrowing details from regal and general military dress as well as heavenly bodies unexpectedly revealed in a jigsaw play or through calculated draping. Silk braids and ribbons, golden trims, metallic ribbons, dainty illuminating crystals create precious embroidery on lapels, cloaks and edges inspired by the royal Tsars, Ottomans and Hussars. Embroidery is also used as a couture jewellery detail to form marvellous necklaces of brilliant stones around necklines and tailcoat cuffs, and splendid bracelets. Marking a great return of embroidery, of decoration inspired by Charleston dresses and art deco, complete with multifaceted jet, feathers , gold and silver plaques. images: more than 800

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